I struggle with creating good shapes for the flames on the fly so I can’t provide much input there, but I’m happy with the colour palette i’ve chosen. An example of the “finished product” first – a Castaferrum Siege Dreadnought, Ancient Th’aranak: Castaferrum Siege Dreadnought. Shading is done with a pin wash of Nuln Oil directly into all recesses, keeping it fairly narrow but heavy – i’ve found tapping the brush along rather than painting a single stroke is a good way to get a heavy coat with precision. This is very tedious. Now, dry it, and hit the entire model with some Gloss Varnish – I use Vallejo Polyutherane Gloss, thinned. Read the full tutorial after the jump. Let the gloss try and cure for a bit – 30 mins. Few Salamanders survived the massacre, and Vulkan himself disappeared in the chaos. If its a vehicle, then go back to your black oil wash from earlier and use that – the coverage is better over large surfaces. Now, assemble the miniatures (e.g. ), load it up with a bit of oil wash, and gently touch it to a recess/detail. Now – this is important – LEAVE IT FOR 4 HOURS if you’ve put transfers on. A more subtle and forgiving colour is VMC Black-Grey. The idea is to get bold contrasts, while trying not to have too much pure black on the model. Originally known as the Dragon Warriors, the Salamanders were renamed after being reunited with their Primarch, Vulkan (not to be confused with current special character Vulkan He’stan!). The easiest way to paint the weird charcoal skin of Salamanders is to not have any skin exposed. I have done all my vehicles and infantry (so far!) put the heads on): (vii) Weathering Now, to mess up your lovely paint job! Following the same process, use GW Moot Green for the next highlight. I glue each subassembly to a length of sprue, secured somewhere out of the way like on the sole of a foot or inside the shoulder. I quite like Apothecary White as it gives a decent neutral color over white but you could use pretty much any wash thinned over white depending on what you want to go for. Anything which is going to be metal, needs to be blacked out with a brush. One of the times I’ve been most disappointed in the last 12 months was looking through the new range of GW airbrush paints and seeing Warpstone Glow missing from the list. Once the grey is done, swap to white (I use Tamiya Flat White) and just make the brightest points “pop” a bit more. We’re going to shade these. I then do some Raw Sienna sparingly for rust streaks. OSL, flame detail, accuracy of the colors & weapons detail. If the gloss is cured and dry, it will have a capillary action, “sucking” the oil wash into the recesses to make them really stand out. . A good brush (I use near-exclusively a Kolinsky Sable #1 brush) is able to hold a fine point for a long time, and a wet palette lets you control the consistency of your paint for extended lengths of time by countering evaporation. So far I think my Possessed are the only models I think I have put that level of effort into… But they are all different schemes! Start with Vallejo Metal Colour Magnesium (the best coverage in the business, but very thin!). Just remember to paint the base rims black – this is a must-do! https://youtu.be/b5UyWTHyDks?t=1063 An alternate style I plan to try some day. I also wash anything else which needs washing (e.g. My current plan is probably doing more conventional human skin tones glazed with a ashen grey or similar. Start with painting an outline of the flames in Mephiston Red. However, it is not that time consuming once you get the stages down right – a lot of it is in drying times. I remember watching this video (https://youtu.be/VbAUFTXA13M) when I first started painting and thinking it was black magic, which is an excellent example of someone with a quality brush, good brush control, and impeccable dilution of their paint. I add a small amount of Fire Dragon Bright towards the inside, then very carefully add a dot of white at the back of the lens. By far my biggest tip, which applies to any miniature painting, is to get a high quality brush and a wet palette. In addition, I will mostly not list the specific colours in the accompanying text as that can get pretty repetitive and a bit redundant with the paints being in the pictures themselves, instead I am mostly going to be talking about why I made a colour choice. Basecoat of 2:1 mix of Abaddon Black and White Scar. Once the grey is done, swap to white (I use Tamiya Flat White) and just make the brightest points “pop” a bit more. Using a 50/50 mix of GW Caliban Green and GW Warpstone Glow, build up thin layers on the raised areas of the model. Finally, Vallejo Midouri Green where the shadows are – again, you’re trying to tint, rather than replace. Touch up large surfaces and ridges/details with additional layers of Warpstone Glow until they reach a smooth and bright appearance, Edge highlight with a 4/1 mix of Warpstone Glow and Wraithbone.